What are Bromeliads?

Fertilising

Propagation

Where to grow

Pests

Mounting Bromeliads

Did you know?

   What are Bromeliads?
Bromeliads (pronounced BROM-MEEL-EE-ADS) are a large group of plants, comprising of well over 2,000
species and hundreds of hybrids. They originate in the Americas having a large range extending from the
deserts of Mexico to the rainforests of South America. Plants vary in size from small Tillandsias no bigger
than the tip of your finger to large Puya and Vrieseas sometimes more than 2 metres across. This large and
fascinating range provides growers with plants for every location in the home, garden, shadehouse or glass-
house environment.

Should I fertilise my bromeliads. If so when and how?
Bromeliads will grow very well in the open garden without fertilising but you will have a much more colourful
and stronger plant if careful feeding is carried out. Fertilise only in the warmer months with a weak solution of a
liquid fertilizer. (no more than half strength).  Most fish or seaweed fertilisers are suitable but do remember, use only half recommended strength.

Are there any ‘best’ or ‘worst’ times in the year to propagate bromeliad pups (offsets)?
All propagation of bromeliads should be carried out in warmer months. For Sydney and surrounding areas it is
generally accepted that from late September through to April are the acceptable months for dividing and potting.
Although plants will survive if divided and potted in the colder months you will find that they do not thrive, and
indeed often do not root until well into the next year

It is advisable to wait until the pup (offshoot) is at least one third the size of the parent plant before removal.

Gently remove the pup from the mother plant (by using a sharp knife) close as possible to the parent.  Allow the base of the pup to dry for at least 24 hours then place firmly in a pot of a good quality orchid mix.

Where can I grow my bromeliads?
- Bromeliads Indoors
Bromeliads need a brightly lit location near a window to give sufficient light for them to grow. It is a good
idea to group several plants together to help maintain humidity around plants. A daily misting will keep plants
healthy. Plants should be washed regularly to remove dust from their leaves to allow the plants to breathe
and absorb moisture. Warning: Do not use sprays containing oil e.g. Leaf Gloss, White Oil etc. as these
will suffocate the plant. Do not stand pot or containers directly in saucers.  Elevate to avoid potting mixture
being continually wet.
- Bromeliads in the Shade House
An ideal shade house in the Sydney area should have protection against cold southerly or dry westerly winds.
Shading of 50 to 70% will suit most bromeliads. A fiberglass roof is ideal to keep rain of the plants in colder
months.
- Bromeliads in Glasshouses (cold or heated)
A very small percentage of bromeliads require more protection in winter months to keep them looking their
best. In the glasshouse fans are needed to keep the air circulating around the plants. During summer months
glasshouses will become very hot so exhaust fans and cooling systems may be needed.
- Bromeliads in the garden
Most bromeliads are epiphytes growing on trees or around the base of them in leaf litter, moss or on rock
outcrops. When planning a garden for bromeliads, remember it must be given excellent drainage. Bark mulch
makes an excellent medium to grow bromeliads in, helping to raise the humidity around the plants as well as
deterring weeds.

What sort of light conditions do Bromeliads need?
To grow bromeliads to perfection the right amount of light is needed for each species to bring out the best in
their colour and shape. Bright filtered light suits most species. Direct summer sunlight will burn and yellow the
leaves.

Can I use any old potting mix?
Bromeliads will just about grow in or on anything from rocks to peat bogs provided the mix drains well and
does not break down too quickly and become sour. A good quality Orchid Mix is generally recommended.

How do I water them?
When watering be sure to water thoroughly (not just splashing lightly) washing the center of the plants and
thoroughly soak the mix. This stops the build up of salts and chemicals found in water supplies. During
winter months water only in the early mornings on clear days. This allows the plants to dry off before the
onset of cold nights. During the warm summer months plants can be watered every couple of days, with
misting every morning.

Pests.
Apart from minor damage from chewing insects bromeliads are relatively pest free. These insects can be
removed by hand or controlled by using non-toxic insecticides.
CAUTION PRIOR TO USING INSECTICIDES
Consult the manufacturer’s instructions and take necessary steps to avoid poisoning. Scale or mealy bugs
can be contained by spraying or dipping the plants in a product called ‘Clensel’ which is pyrethrum based. Small infestations of mealy bug may be controlled by applying Metholated Spirits with a cotton bud.

How do I mount bromeliads?

Most varieties of bromeliads are excellent plants for mounting. They are epiphytic not parasitic and present no threat to the tree on which they are mounted.   Their strong, wiry roots are for attachment only.

There are many mediums you may use for mounting bromeliads - trunks and branches of trees (do not select trees that shed their bark), driftwood, even rocks.  The trunks of tree ferns or old bases of Stag or Elk horns are excellent.

Mounting these plants presents a most attractive means of displaying them.  Many bromeliads such as Billbergias are even more attractive when viewed from below with light showing through the foliage, emphasizing the beautiful colours and markings.

To successfully mount a bromeliad chose a young plant.  Select a position on your chosen base, preferably a hollow or at the junction of a branch, somewhere that gives some purchase.  If using a rock as a base the plant may be placed in a hollow or crevice and kept firm by plugging with small pieces of wood or rock but ensure that there is natural drainage as if water is allowed to collect at the base of the plant it will be likely to rot and die. 

Tie the young plant on firmly. (Old nylon pantyhose are ideal for this purpose.)  If using wire please ensure that it is plastic covered .  A small amount of glue may be used but ensure that the glue does not contain silicon as this is detrimental to the plant.  Make sure the plant is firmly attached as if allowed to move in the breeze it will be unlikely to make firm root attachment.   A small amount of spaghnum moss may be placed around the base but is not essential. 

Water your plant regularly and you will find that it will attach and grow into a beautiful clump in a very short space of time.  Regular foliar fertilising with half strength liquid fertiliser in the warmer months will ensure a great result.

Most bromeliads can be successfully mounted - Tillandsias, Billbergias, Neoregelias  and Vrieseas - but do not choose plants from the Cryptanthus genus, as this group is considered to be terrestrial and will not thrive as a mounted plant.

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Did you know!

Did you know that the Pineapple (Ananas) is one of the best known members of the Bromeliad family?
Christopher Columbus introduced the pineapple to Europe after his second voyage to the New World in
1493. The succulent plant was called Anana or “excellent fruit” by the natives of the Carribean. The succulent
fruit proved so popular that within 100 years the culture of pineapples had extended to many parts of the world.
The first pineapple grown in England was presented to King Charles, the event being recorded in a portrait
which now hangs in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Did you know that in their native habitat Bromeliads perform a very important ecological function? The tanks
formed by their leaves hold large quantities of water. In nature these tanks are often found to contain a large
assortment of insects, animals and other life forms (e.g. lizards, frogs, small crustaceans etc). Many
creatures depend upon bromeliads to provide moisture during times of drought. Some spend their entire lives
inside the tank without ever leaving. In return, the plant is provided with a continuous supply of decaying organic
matter which acts as fertilizer.

Spanish Moss .. (Tillandsia usenoides) (also know as Old Mans’ Beard)., is a bromeliad belonging to the
genus Tillandsia. It is found in abundance in the humid tropics of North and South America, hanging from trees
and even telegraph poles In early years of settlement in the Americas the moss was used for mixing with mud
to caulk settlers cabins and dried moss for kindling purposes. Natives of South America use it as a sterile
dressing for wounds and as a stuffing for bedding etc.In nature many birds use it to line their nests.
Commercial use of Spanish Moss has included packing material, saddle blankets etc. and an unconfirmed
report is that Henry Ford used Spanish Moss as a filling for the seats of the T Model Ford. To-day it is widely
used (both fresh and dried) in floristry and landscaping.





While every care has been taken to ensure that the information contained on this page is correct
The Bromeliad Society of New South Wales is not responsible for any damage to plants that may
result from following these directions.